I recently had the chance to try this little number, “Bordello” from Summerland’s Dirty Laundry Vineyard.
Known primarily for a trilogy of Gewürztraminers from different plots of their vineyard, Dirty Laundry has some of the region’s oldest vinifera vines. The winery came out of the gates strong with some great aromatic whites about half a decade ago, but personnel changes and constant direction-tweaking made the critical-darling era a fleeting one.
I re-visited their wines, their whole line of current releases, a couple weeks back to find that the winery is starting, slowly, to get back on track. Fortunately, they’ve been able to keep the business aspect of the place on-course due to the fantastic branding and design, provided by Bernie Hadley-Beauregard of Brandever, which aims to reflect a little history:
It was the late 1800’s when fur traders, goldminers and cattlemen traveled through the Okanagan and to Summerland’s original townsite, nestled on the shores of the Okanagan Lake. It was also the era of the construction of the national Canadian Pacific Railway through British Columbia. Our story starts with one of the 15,000 Chinese workers who fled the terrible working conditions of the railway construction and eventually found himself on the shores of Summerland - paradise found!
His first business endeavour was a Chinese Laundry that thrived as the sternwheeler boats docked nearby, delivering people and supplies to the growing community. It didn’t take long however for this entrepreneur to see there were other needs in town not being met. Hence his business expanded to include a gambling den and brothel on the second floor!! Needless to say Summerland’s early settlers and visitors had some of the cleanest garments in the Valley… not to mention the widest grins. Perhaps it is best that we keep this little known part of Summerland history, hush hush.
The one I took the most notice on while tasting was their 2007 ‘Bordello’, a Bordeaux-inspired blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and 1% (!) Merlot. It was softer than I’d expected, with rich cherries, blueberries, a dash of chocolate and a pinch of spice and fresh leafy herbs. The tannins weren’t intense at all (a common Okanagan “flexing” habit), but soft and well integrated while still supplying a sturdy structure. Good food wine, and decent exhibition of provenance.
But-
It’s 39 bucks. The same cost as two bottles of Michael Bartier’s brilliant Road 13 Honest John’s Red or two bottles of Howard Soon’s award-winning wines from Sandhill.
So if you’re at a friend’s place and get offered a glass, I’d definitely recommend you give it a whirl, same for if you see it poured at a tasting.
But, MAN, 39 bucks?!
Even with that fantastic label (see the naked ladies on it?) which definitely turns some heads, I’d much prefer to hang out with the girl next door, and feel better about it in the morning.
Every Sunday, with an educational edge, I explore specific appellations or sub-regions, taking you along for the ride. If it’s old news, then brush up on some fading facts; if it’s uncharted territory, why not learn something new? If you know something I haven’t mentioned, then feel free to comment and share your experiences. Check out past Sunday posts here.
Photo from coteauxduloir.fr
Despite how wrong it feels, there are no spelling mistakes in the title…
Chris Deegan of Nopa is one sommelier who embraces reds from the Loire and especially those made from the grape Pineau d’Aunis (Pee-no Doh-nee). He has three on Nopa’s acclaimed list, including one from the Coteaux du Loir, an area in the northern reaches of the Loire Valley’s river basin. I’ve tasted little Pineau d’Aunis, and while definitely not enough to generalize, it has reminded me of a rendition of spicy and peppery Gamay. Similarly driven by fresh red fruit, but with more green leafy characters. Sometimes overwhelmingly green, and other times perfectly seasoned to add complexity.
The Pineau d’Aunis grape isn’t related to the Pinot family or Chenin Blanc (as it’s sometimes called Chenin Noir). Its medieval history is rooted in France’s Loire Valley and you’d have a hard time finding it growing anywhere else on the planet.
Click map for better perspective.
The Coteaux du Loir, with its embedded appellation of Jasnières, is nestled in the hills, 40 km (25 mi) north of the town of Tours within the Touraine section. The small Jasnières AC is exclusively for Chenin Blanc from the best slopes. The Coteaux du Loir AC is reserved for whites from Chenin Blanc and red and rosés from Pineau d’Aunis, Cab Franc, Gamay, and Malbec (Côt); Grolleau as also allowed to round out the rosés (25%). This is the fringe of where grapes can ripen in Western France. South facing exposure and moderation from the Loir River play a crucial part in the vineyards’ survival. Widespread frost in 1956, which nearly wiped out the vines, reminds of how fragile viticulture can be in a marginal climate. The soil tends to be the limestone-rich tufa with some flinty clay.
Photo from Belliviere.com
Domaine de Bellivière is the small estate run by Eric Nicolas and his family. Their 13 hectares of vines are spread across the Coteaux du Loir and Jasnières. Eric Nicolas is committed to organic viticulture (and biodynamic since 2008) in a cool and damp place that doesn’t exactly favour farming without chemicals.
Domaine de Bellivière ‘08 Rouge-Gorge (Pineau d’Aunis)
Shit this wine is good. Radiant fresh strawberry and cherry fruit with cinnamon-heart spice and green leafy herbaceousness. Light and velvety, yet with a structured edge; distinct acidity and a small bite of tannin at the end. I enjoyed every sip of it. $25-30 in SF.
Bellivière is imported into Quebec by a company called Le Maître de Chai, who pull in some impressive producers. I realize that for British Columbians, and the laws we’re burdened with, this doesn’t make the wine much easier to get our hands on. But it’s in the country! It’s so close! Figuratively. I can’t think of any Pineau d’Aunis wines in BC, but then again, I was never looking for them. Does anyone have any insight?
There’s an awesome connection that I didn’t put together until I was digging around the net for more information on Bellivière. Cory (saignée) credits the Rouge-Gorge with being his epiphany natural wine. It spurred him down the path of plotting the “31 Days of Natural Wine,” working at Terroir, and super recently, starting up an importing company with Guilhaume Gerard called Selection Massale. An inspiring post, read it here.
Seek out Pineau d’Aunis and keep trying the unfamiliar, exciting things may happen.
As always, please feel free to contribute any information, experience or tasting notes that you feel are relevant and check back next Sunday. Check out past Sunday posts here.
A month of travel lays ahead for both my lady and I, yet with different routes and destinations that don’t seem to connect. We shared a late-night bottle of Domaine de Bellivière ‘06 La Rouge-Gorge that we both enjoyed immensely. The spice and green leafiness mixed with the pretty and radiant red fruit reminded me of the lovely Loire Gamay from Noëlla Morantin. The La Rouge-Gorge with more structure and definition. Beautiful wine for unwelcome departure.
More on the wine this Sunday.
Photo credit Talkingsun
If you’ve been guilty of drinking Pinot Noir from the E & J Gallo owned Red Bicyclette label over the last few years, chances are high you were drinking a fair amount of Merlot and Syrah. This isn’t a big deal. If you’ve been drinking cheap Californian Pinot over the last few years, you’ve also been drinking a good chunk of Merlot and Syrah (up to 25% max by law). In this case however, the co-ops and wineries who sold the bulk wine to E & J Gallo, were secretly cutting it with wine from the cheaper and often easier to grow Merlot and Syrah grapes and cashing in off Pinot Noir’s hype. That will get you in big trouble in France… check out the Decanter article.
It’s hard to imagine a world without wine scandals.
The Chicago Daily Herald covers Vancouver food and wine (plus Candian chocolate bars!)
Beppi shows some love to Sandhill’s mighty Howard Soon in The Globe & Mail.
The Edmonton Journal’s Nick Lees pairs BC wine with Olympic sports…
The London Free Press shares some ridiculously simple thoughts on our fare…
Ski Magazine jumps on the Ice Wine bandwagon.
Every Sunday, with an educational edge, I explore specific appellations or sub-regions, taking you along for the ride. If it’s old news, then brush up on some fading facts; if it’s uncharted territory, why not learn something new? If you know something I haven’t mentioned, then feel free to comment and share your experiences. Check out past Sunday posts here.
Montsant DO is another region you can add to that sometimes baffling “up-and-coming” category. It’s a new Denominación de Origen, created in 2001, and I had never even heard of it up until a couple weeks ago when it came up as a lamb pairing suggestion (and you’re totally right @yaffler).
Montsant is nestled in the northeastern Spanish region of Catalan, 100 km southwest of Barcelona and 28 km from the sea. Montsant’s “C” shaped body covers 17 villages and nearly encircles its namesake mountain and the high-profile appellation of Priorat DOCa. Although newly labeled, there is nothing new about viticulture here. Before 2001 it was called Falset, a sub-zone of large Cava grape resource Tarragona DO. Before that it was the Greeks, Romans and Carthusian monks. Today, Montsant, which is home to 50 wineries and 2000 hectares (5000 acres) of vines, exports 70% of its wine (largely to Germany and the US).
A great visual tour of Montsant with an intense soundtrack.
The Mediterranean climate is hot, touched by a coastal influence and the temperatures take a steep drop day and night. The soils are chalk and clay, not quite the famous llicorella (slate and quartz) of its celebrity neighbour Priorat.
The reds are deep coloured, powerful and often oak-laden. The bold and intensely fruity rosés are starting to get noticed. Expect grapes such as Mazuela (Cariñena), Garnacha, Garnacha Peluda (a hairy-leafed Garnacha variant with lower alcohol and colour), Monastrell, Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), Picapoll Negro (a native to the area), Samsó (a Penedés native), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. The Spanish love their grape synonyms more than anyone. If you were to spot some of the region’s rare white wine (production is less than 10%), it would likely be from Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, Moscatel or the Cava grapes Macabeo, Parellada, and Pansal (wow! Xarel-lo is called a lot of different things).
More now than ever, the youth of Montsant are driving the industry. Brothers Joan and Josep who run the 200-year-old family domaine Joan d’Anguera are a great example. After all this time they’re still making adjustments. Joan d’Anguera is an organic estate and expect to be certified biodynamic sometime next year, they’re always playing with and revising the blends, they’ve switched from American to French oak, and they’ve begun to sell a sizable portion of their fruit to other producers so they can concentrate only on the best quality.
Joan d’Anguera ‘06 Finca L’Argata
40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
The grape breakdown in the Finca L’Argata shows the modern side of Montsant. Joan and Josep’s late father Josep Senior my have been the first to plant Syrah vines in Spain, a clone from California rather than France. Because of this connection, the boys strive to produce the best Syrah in Spain. The alcohol levels in their five wines are a good indicator of both the body you can expect in the wine and the heat the vineyards see: 13.5% being the lowest end of the spectrum that rises to 16.5%.
The colour is deep with a vibrant purple rim. Bold characters of both milk and dark chocolate, layers of purple fruit, and licorice on the viscous and plush palate. There is great acidity throughout with dusty textured, chewy tannins and a lengthy finish. The 15% alcohol is busting out at times, but not enough to embarrass itself. The wine tastes of modern Spain, with little rusticity. It is great quality and a fresh avenue for anyone seeking boldness in new places. $25-30 in the US.
I’m certain there are plenty of Montsant wines with 100% Spanish grapes which are lighter and taste quite different. I’d be interested to try other styles as well. It is an interesting area that I will definitely keep an eye on.
In BC, there are a number Montsant wines on the market as well.
As always, please feel free to contribute any information, experience or tasting notes that you feel are relevant and check back next Sunday. Check out past Sunday posts here.
Maria Jose López de Heredia
You probably already know a thing or two about R. López de Heredia, the timeless Rioja producer who often free their vintages 10 or 20 years after their neighbours. Traditional in the respect that they’ve been making wine, farming grapes and growing the same varietals for the last 130 odd years. The magnificent winery sits a short walk from the Rioja Alta town of Haro and their grapes come from four distinct vineyards: Tondonia, Gravonia, Cubillo, and Bosconia. To satisfy any thirst you may have for more from López de Heredia’s story, read this fantastic New York Times article by Mr. Asimov, or browse their surprisingly thorough website.
This is wine I’ve longed to drink, but rarely had the opportunity until this past Thursday.
Interpretation of my brief scrawled, and at times, incomplete notes…
Gravonia Bianco Crianza ‘99
100% Viura - aged 4 years in barrel. More info.
Coconut and marzipan with some apple flesh and peachy fruit. Sherry-like in it’s nuttiness with bright acid. Rich, complex and very good. Quite reasonably priced at $29 US. Our pour was from a new bottle with a very slight chill and the temperature was perfect.
Tondonia Bianco Reserva ‘90
90% Viura 10% Malvasia - aged for 6 years in barrel. More info.
Hazelnut and red apple skin. A rich white with complexity you could spend hours smelling. The acidity is staggering for a 20 year old white. Interesting and very good. $47 US.
Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva ‘98
Garnacho (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%) - 4.5 years in barrel. More info.
One of my favourite all-time rosés; certainly the most interesting. Unsweetened peach iced-tea and oak. Nutty with slight raspberry flavours and good acidity. I love this wine. $28 US.
Cubillo Crianza ‘04
Tempranillo (65%), Garnacho (25%), Mazuelo and Graciano - 3 years in barrel. More info.
Vibrant spread of red fruit, chocolate, sweet oak and dried basil on the finish. Medium weight, very good at a good price. $28 US.
Bosconia Reserva ‘01
Tempranillo (80%), Garnacho (15%), Mazuelo and Graciano - 5 years in barrel. More info.
Deep, ripe fruit, dark chocolate, dusty tannins (wood tannins?). Complex and tasty. $40 US.
Tondonia Gran Reserva ‘87
Tempranillo (75%), Garnacho (15%), Mazuelo and Graciano - 8 years in barrel. More info.
Potpourri, spice and coffee with ripe red fruit. Quite exotic and earthy. Very good - a delicious treat. $93 US.
I somehow managed to forget to take a single picture.
The reds were fascinating to try (especially the Gran Reserva 87), but my heart is in the whites and the rosé. It’s so rare to see whites and rosés aged this well, especially at these prices. The nuttiness and acidity define a style that’s a pleasure to drink. The freshly fermented wine’s acidity must be staggering to be able to equip it for the long haul in barrel.
Thanks for another interesting tasting from Arelquin Wine Merchant.
Some of these wines are available in BC through Waldorf Wines. Kitsilano and Dundarave Wine Cellars are probably the best places to look in Vancouver.
Grape vines flying by…
We found ourselves with a free day earlier in the week and after grabbing a Zipcar, embarked on a rainy drive through Sonoma and Carneros and into Napa on the lookout for a few wineries to drop in at.
Benziger
The Benziger property is gorgeous; It’s also a biodynamic theme park. After achieving the right to use the Demeter certified word, they’ve used it ad nauseam. Maybe I’m just bitter that I didn’t get to go on the Biodynamic® Vineyard Tram Tour, but I’m certain Rudolf Steiner is rolling in his Biodynamic® grave.
We opted for the reserve tasting flight where you choose five wines from a selection of their small production, biodynamic and single vineyard wines. All serious wines including the ‘07 “Sangiacomo Vineyards” Chardonnay from Carneros (the one of the bunch that is neither organic nor biodynamic), ‘05 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘06 Oonapais Bordeaux Blend, and their flagship ‘06 Tribute Bordeaux Blend. Good concentration and quality across the board.
Stylistically, my favourite of the lineup was the ‘07 De Coelo Pinot Noir whose production is a mere 250 cases and runs you a hot $69 at the winery. Along with the assorted basket of red fruits you’d expect, this bulking Pinot had an enlivening gingersnap spice on the finish. A tasty wine that was fun to try, especially because of the production level, but not fun enough for me to spring the $70.
Landmark
The first impromptu pullover was Landmark Vineyards whose Chardonnays have given me joy in the past. The flight of three intensified and grew in weight from the Overlook ‘07, which is a blend of 22 vineyards, with baked green apple and focused acidity; to the Carneros-sourced and my favourite of the three, Damaris ‘07, with spiced fruit, and more depth and oak; and the Russian River Valley’s Lorenzo ‘07, which was even spicier and slightly smoky, but after showing a lot of complexity and promise up front, seemed to fizzle out quickly. I admire how well the Landmark wines carry the oak-driven style that they’re burdened with, and how they all punch above their weight class (prices are $24, $40, and $53 at the winery).
The Landmark Overlook is available in BC through Landmark Selections, but does get pricey at $39, and in Ontario for $33 where Beppi wrote it up in the Globe and Mail last November.
Ciff Lede
A nice shot of the power lines outside Cliff Lede
Cliff Lede (LAY-dee), an Edmonton native whose family built the oil and construction company Ledcor, decided to chase the Napa lifestyle while jogging through the valley in the late 90’s. Cliff eventually found a property for sale in the Stags Leap District and compiled a high profile team - Winemaker Michelle Edwards (Peter Michael, Colgin), Vineyard Manager David Abreu (Colgin, Araujo, Grace, Bryant, Staglin, Pahlmeyer, Harlan, Screaming Eagle, etc, etc, etc), and even threw a little consulting from Michael Rolland in the mix (because why not?) They focus on red Bordeaux varietals and one Sauvignon Blanc.
The actual tasting experience here was the best. Our host left us to the wine and discussed technical aspects afterward. No one blurted out flavour descriptors or impressed us with numbers between 90 and 100 while I had my my nose stuck in the glass.
We began with the ‘06 Claret (57% Cabenet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc), a light and feminine style I found quite refreshing. The ‘06 St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon (with 13% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot) and the spicier, darker and more bruting ‘06 Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon (5% Merlot, 2% Malbec) were both delicious wines, but didn’t excite me enough for the price. ($40, $65, $60 as listed at the winery).
Image from zoomermag.com
What did excite me was the ‘08 Sauvignon Blanc. The style is very aromatic and Gewurztraminer-like in it’s spice, smoke, and perfume qualities. Rich, with the creamy orange blossom character that I’ve heard people trumpet as a BC white trait. I like the fact that, although 28% was fermented in oak (and 6% in concrete eggs!), there’s no obvious oak fingerprint mucking things up. Very good Sauvignon Blanc done in a very cool style. (Apparently a little hard to come by these days, but it’s $22 at the winery).
A few of these wines are imported into BC by Landmark Selections, including the Sauv Blanc for $34, Stags Leap Cab for $76 and the flagship ‘Poetry’ Cab, which I haven’t tried, for $176.
Overall, a great first introduction to Napa, yet I look forward to another jaunt through the valley, where I can make some reservations and plan out all the stops.
The Province’s Wine Guy, our good pal, bestselling author and future Salt Tasting Room cameo server, James Nevison, does all of us a favour by putting an awesome Manzanilla Sherry up on a deserved pedestal in today’s newspaper…
This, coupled with the BCLDB’s recent releasing of the floodgates, making way more Lustau Sherries readily available in Vancouver, can be seen as a good jump-start toward making 2010 the best year yet for Sherry consumption in Vancouver.
Thanks, James!