I’ve passed along Matthew Latkiewicz’s ‘Stained Teeth‘ column that he does for McSweeney’s before. I quite enjoy it because a) he’s funny and b) there just isn’t much wine writing out there that isn’t overly studious, boring, academic and (most of all) trying to impose an opinion. (”Hello, Pot!”, “Hello, Kettle!” …yeah, I get it.)
His writing about wine is writing that doesn’t attempt to be an expert view, nor does it claim to be the final or important, word on anything. He simply writes about his life, where wine is concerned. He enjoys wine, and extends anecdotes when wine offers particularly interesting or whimsical experiences in his life. No agenda, no fuss.
I love this. It’s so refreshing.
In saying this, I rarely read or get a synopsis of someone’s first venture into natural wine, other than when it’s one of us professional-types waxing poetic on their history with the stuff. How exciting it is (honestly) to ride along sidesaddle with someone as they discover the outright awesomness of it, particularly when their writing is as fun and casual as Latkiewicz’s.
I encourage you to check out his very recent story on McSweeney’s right over here…
I recently shared my aversion for the volumes of boring wine sold daily in Vancouver. As a follow up, I’m writing briefly about five regions that I’m digging on this day, August 29, 2010, all of which are available to some extent in our fine province. The exact order is largely based on how I feel this minute, so don’t read into it too much. If anything below is completely new to you, I’d urge you to seek out the wines and begin experimenting for yourself - preferably with friends, loved ones, etc.
1. Jura, France
Domaine Andre and Mireille Tissot (now run by son Stéphane) carries the flame as the only producer available in BC from the virtually unknown eastern French region of Jura. Hopefully a couple of other names will surface eventually (*cough, Jacques Puffeney, Overnoy!), but in the meantime we should enjoy the brilliant range of what Tissot offers. The best are wonderfully authentic, expressive and thought provoking wines. The collection of single vineyard Chardonnays are really cool - ‘Les Graviers’ with it’s slight nutty oxidized nature, minerality, yet spiced apple freshness and evolving length, may change the way you think about Chardonnay (don’t fear the semi-oxidation!). The ‘05 Poulsard sans souffe (made from the indigenous red Poulsard grape and unsulfured at bottling) is deceiving with its faint colour, yet packs power and tannin, balancing a stinky, earthy, almost cheesy character with vibrant and pretty red fruit. Its ability to successfully balance various obvious elements is an enigma. Tissot’s Cremant de Jura ‘Indigene’ is delicious bubble made like Champagne, yet displays more personality than many Champagne brands at twice the price. The Vin Jaune is rad, yet pricey as they tend to be. I have yet to try all the labels from the 10 or so wines available in our parts, but so far the Traminer ‘07 Arbois AC (a value label from the Savagnin grape) is the only one that has bored me. Find out how cool Jura is for yourself and then only share your love with a few of your closest friends - there isn’t enough for everyone.
2. Northern Spain
I really only wanted to speak about wine from two producers. So by Northern Spain, I actually mean R. Lopez de Heredia from Rioja Alta and Bodegas y Vinedos Alion from Ribera del Duero - two vastly different producers, neither of which would be considered small.
R. Lopez de Heredia is that traditional producer which has been family owned for 130 years and still adheres to the crazy old tradition of releasing their wines when they figure you should drink them. If you spot a rosé from the 90s on the shelf at a wine shop, it was almost certainly made by R. Lopez. I’ve been in love with the rosé and the whites for some time now, yet still haven’t had an epiphany involving their reds. The whites are strange and delicious and incredibly versatile with food. They will often show a vanilla woodiness on the nose (usually from long barrel aging in American oak) and carry a slightly nutty oxidized character, but the long-lived vibrant acidity will prove how alive they still are. I recently brought bottles of the Vina Tondonia ‘93 Rose Crianza (from Garnacho, Tempranillo, Viura grapes) and the Vina Gravonia ‘99 White Crianza (100% Viura) to a weekend gathering of high school friends, half expecting to drink them by myself, but the reception was wonderful. Everyone was intrigued by their uniqueness and one pal even suggested that the Gravonia ranked high in his all-time favourite whites. Pretty cool. Kitsilano Wine Cellar has a good selection from R. Lopez de Heredia and the wines start in the $40s.
Bodegas y Vinedos Alion is essentially the second label from Spain’s most famous producer - Vega Sicilia. It’s a wine that I’ve wanted to try for a while and one I was always a touch worried I wouldn’t like (maybe I was intimidated by the Parker points, of which this wine has plenty). The 2004 is 100% Tempranillo with 15 months of new oak lending a big, plush style. A kiss of rustic charm, which Spain is so good at, makes it difficult to dislike. $85 in the government store. If you shell out big dollars for Napa Cabs, I suggest giving this a go next time.
3. Beaujolais, France
I hardly think my adoration for wine from the Crus of Beaujolais is a secret. The stock on the government shelves seems to be dwindling, but hopefully we’ll start to see new vintages from a few producers. 2009 it up as much as you can! Look for Dominique Piron, Marcel Lapierre in the Signature Stores and Richard Rottier at Marquis Wine Cellars. Henry Fessy’s 2008 St. Amour - a light and pretty expression from the most northerly Cru is quite delicious and available at a few of the bigger government stores.
Image borrowed from Les Marcelins
4. Loire Valley, France
The Loire is such a bountiful source of unique wines with value - especially crisp and vibrant whites from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet), and Romorantin. Marquis Wine Cellars is great base for whites and red from the Loire - Touraine, Vouvray (see Huet), Saumur. The Domaine des Huards ‘07 Cour-Cheverny is a cool wine from the Romorantin grape at just over $20 (more info). I’ve also been loving the delicious pink wines from organic Saumur producer Manoir de la Tête Rouge. The 2009 rosé ‘Bille de Clown’ (Cab Franc) is easily the tastiest rosé I’ve tried all summer and well worth its release price of $24. There is also the sweet, very fruity and very delicious bubble ‘Tête à Claque’ that reminds me a lot of Bugey-Cerdon (think Gamay-flavoured soda pop). I would love to see reds surface from Pineau d’Aunis - this little grape can provide great pleasure. Also, Clos Rougeard will change your life - if someone can get at least a couple cases imported into this province, I’ll invite you all over to my place for a Clos Rougeard party.
5. New Zealand
These two small islands are the source of my most cherished wines from the Southern Hemisphere. I’m not talking about Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc or the droves of taste-a-likes (although I recently had the Churton Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which I thought was pretty interesting). Many producers in New Zealand are planting Syrah, which is delivering a restrained style with plenty of promise. The southern region of Central Otago, known best for bringing us mind-blowing Pinot Noir (see Rippon, Felton Road, Pyramid Valley) is also a source of incredible steely and lean Rieslings. The two on offer from Rippon are especially delicious, the 2008 ‘Jeunesse’ from young vines is a great starting point for around $30, and the regular label, for $10 more, is a step up in seriousness and minerality. Kits Wine Cellar is a good beacon for NZ wines.
What are you into drinking these days?
A short while back, I’d put up a quick post about the massive bridge and highway slated to run straight through Germany’s Mosel region. In the comments, a reader kindly passed on a link that describes the plight of those opposed, with jarring before and after photos (above) of what could soon happen to this historic, charming part of the world.
If you’re concerned about this possible development, and wondering how you can help, check out the site right over here…
I feel like I’ve been talking too much in my posts of late, so here are some photos from a great Burgundy tasting I attended last week through the Vancouver Sommelier Guild, led by Marsannay producer Cyril Audoin…
Charles Audain ‘07 Marsannay ‘Clos du Roy’
Ghislaine Barthod ‘04 Chambolle-Musigny
Ghislaine Barthod ‘04 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
Marquis d’Angerville ‘02 Volnay ‘Clos des Ducs’
Annick Parent ‘03 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets
Lucien le Moine ‘99 Nuit-St-Greorges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges
Alain Hudelot-Noellat ‘99 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts
Armand-Rousseau ‘98 Gevrey-Chambertain 1er Cru Clos St Jacques
For me, the legendary Armand-Rousseau Clos St Jacques took it. Brilliant wine. I love the chalkiness and the lovely lengthily finish. The Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée and the Marquis d’Angerville Volnay were both gorgeous as well. The two ’04s from Ghislaine Berthod were unfortunately channeling their vintage (very wet with lots of mildew) and came across with stinky vegetal and wet leaves notes, yet still managed to show a certain level of charm. Annick Parent’s ‘03 Volnay’s vintage too was translating into the glass (an epic hot year) and the fruit was very ripe and sweet tasting. I felt like it could of been a subtle new world Pinot, but that was probably a touch extreme, as my only markers were other wines from Burgundy. Lucien le Moine’s Nuit-St-George was quite good but quickly fell thin on the finish and there was talk of it being a touch faulted. All-in-all, it was a great tasting and a great learning experience.
Almost four months ago I moved to the Okanagan to immerse myself in wine country and see the ups and downs of the 2010 vintage intimately. Turns out I could of just followed along on Twitter!
Rob Van Westen of Van Westen Vineyards was so excited about veraison occurring in his Pinot Noir block today, that he’s going to post a photo of it daily on his @winegrower99 handle. Further south in the valley, winemaker Sandra Oldfield of Tinhorn Creek has been maintaining a #ChardyTuesday hashtag so people can keep tabs on her Row 1 Vine 3 Chardonnay grapes.
Rob’s Pinot photo is the one on the top left , Sandra’s Chardonnay photo from today is the one on the right.
I love this, and think it would be great to see more winemakers doing it!
While we’re talking BC wine and Twitter, the judging for the Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards is going on in Penticton right now, and you can follow how things are going by keeping up-to-date with the #CWA10 hashtag.
Why are the majority of people in Vancouver driven to seek out ordinary wine? By ordinary, I suppose I mean mundane, “varietally correct,” polite, unchallenging, fucking boring wine with zero personality. There also isn’t anything wrong with drinking ordinary wine from time to time - especially when budgetary restraints come into play, or the situation simply isn’t calling for anything requiring serious thought (drinking wine out of water bottles while you play pitch-and-putt is one of these situations that springs to mind). However, go to your local BCLDB or high-volume chain restaurant and watch the droves of people shell out cash for a neutral Pinot Grigio and the reality is surprising.
This isn’t a new question of mine, but something I’ve been seriously pondering for over a year and has especially been fueled by the time I spent in San Francisco and Portland. It was refueled this past week after reading this article in the New York Times about Txakoli, and me going “Ah yes, I love Txakoli” and then despair setting in soon after when I remembered that there still isn’t A SINGLE TXAKOLI AVAILABLE IN THE PROVINCE. Ridiculous. There still isn’t any Pineau d’Aunis, Bugey de Cerdon, or Frappato, anything that could be considered ‘orange wine,’ anything from Irouléguy, and little, if any, Blaufrankisch. There is one producer from Jura available in our market. There are thousands of grape varietals to explore from so many different regions, but we’re still obsessed with 5 or 6 of the most popular. Once the public begins to purchase wine that is off the beaten track, the agents will continue to source and supply more.
As examples, here are a few wine lists from some of my favourite places in San Francisco: Nopa (where I’ve witnessed first-hand how many interesting bottles of wine are sold on a nightly basis), Slanted Door, Delfina, A-16, La Ciccia, Flour + Water - these aren’t eccentric wine destinations, but rather very popular restaurants that supplement the atmosphere, service and the food with a killer wine program. I could read the Slanted Door’s wine list next time I’m feeling a little blue to put a smile on my face. Wine lists shouldn’t read as an account of wines you’ve tried in the past and are familiar with. There should be things you’ve never heard of, regions you never knew existed, places you cant pronounce, wines you taste that make you stop and say “wow, that’s different.” That’s the intrinsic beauty of wine - that it’s all made from silly little grapes, but it can taste substantially different depending on where those grapes are grown and how they’re treated. This phenomenon isn’t just restricted to restaurants, as many retail shops in SF have deep selections of eclectic wines which sell - very few shops are following the BCLDB model of filling the shelves with 12 Malbecs that all taste exactly the same (and each get a facing of 8 bottles wide as dictated by a ridiculous sales formula). The general public in other major cities seems to be more experimental and adventurous with their wine choices. I have a few ideas why this may be in (no particular order):
1. Prices - which relate to our import/taxing structure by the BCLDB. On a retail level, the average consumer is more likely to take a leap of faith on an unknown wine when it costs $15-25 than when it costs $35-50. Tissot’s Poulsard with pasta tonight when it costs $22? Sure, lets give it a shot. But when it costs $45? People are going to head for the value-priced Shiraz instead. Damn you 123%!
2. Wine Store Staffing - the government stores are responsible for the vast majority of retail wine sales and there isn’t passionate sales staff to suggest or recommend anything new. You’re pretty much left to wander the aisles until you find a label you like. While I was working at Kits Wine Cellar, I loved how dedicated the staff were to encouraging customers to leave with something cool that might open doors and change preconceptions. Send someone home with some aged white Rioja from R. Lopez de Heredia and tell them why it’s cool - maybe they’ll hate it or maybe it’ll change their life - at least they’ll think about what they’re drinking and the wine may evoke some emotion. Last time I was at Marquis, the guys sold me a delicious bottle of ‘03 Clos des Fées; the folks at Liberty on Robson are always good with chatting about new, fun stuff. Most private stores employ people that are passionate about wine. I often wish I could spend one afternoon on the floor of a government Signature Store, just to see how much good wine I could sell. The right pros could make a difference. Very few people are going to seek out and experience completely new regions on their own, but will need suggestions and direction. This is one area where the BCLDB is failing us.
3. Most of us in this industry are making it too easy for the consumer. When I started building the opening wine list for l’Abattoir, I would smile every time a rep tried to sell me wine by pitching something along the lines of “Malbec is the hottest thing right now… you’ve got to have one on your list!” Dining out should be about trying new things and having new experiences. Wine lists shouldn’t cater to masses. It should be about complimenting the food (note the brilliance of the Slanted Door’s wine list once again) and an expression of what the sommelier thinks is exciting on that given day. I understand that there is pressure to make money for the restaurant, but this can be done at the same time (although it requires more work). Can you seriously tell me that you’re serving Gallo Cab Sauv to your guests by the glass because you appreciate that wine? We need to give the guests smaller lists comprised entirely of wines we believe in. Most of the sommeliers in this town with any passion, appreciate cool wine - some of them are serving wine that they probably wouldn’t drink, because they think they’re doing their guests a service. If we’re passionate about the wine, diners will drink it. If there is demand from us, the agents will seek out and supply us with more interesting wine. Additionally, our media in BC isn’t doing a good enough job to promote wine programs that are unique and the sommeliers behind them. The public needs to know where they can go get a decent glass of wine in this city, because the options are very limited. An increased spotlight will incite change - plus it’s more interesting than reading about wines available at every government store. There shouldn’t be mandates to write about wine that everyone has access to - that’s boring because these wines are often boring. Jon Bonné at the SF Chronicle is a wine writer I admire, and completely coincidentally, his piece today is calling out boring wine lists! We need more of that.
4. We simply don’t have the wine culture that a city like San Francisco or New York has. Maybe it’s a size thing or maybe it just takes time. Maybe we’ve been a culture of industrial beer drinkers for too long and it’s a slow process to get away from that. Maybe I don’t really believe this but I added it in anyways and filled it with ‘maybes.’
After all this being said, I bring this topic up because I feel like there is a shift happening. I saw it at Kitsilano Wine Cellar and I see it on a daily basis at l’Abattoir. It’s a fact that most people know very little about wine. Many people will be happy to try something new if you put some emotion into it and tell them a story. We can run with this.
Cantina Scambia ‘08 “Crognitella” (pictured above)
Here is something interesting. Its a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo from Umbria and it has a fizz. There is good acidity with dark characters of clean black cherry juice, licorice, and a rubbery tar aroma. This reminds me of a good, dry Lambrusco (and yes, they do exist) and all it needs is a slight chill, a patio and me. The bubbles also add another attractive element to food pairing. It’s brought in by Vino Alegro at $19.99.
I’d love to hear some thoughts on all this….
Controversy continues regarding an upcoming Autobahn route:
“…Mosel Valley producers are turning to their wines’ international fans for help. They’ve enlisted high-profile international wine critics Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson and Stuart Pigott in their fight.
The wine experts have denounced the bridge project as an abomination. Johnson called it “idiocy and a crime.” A campaign called “A Bridge Too Far” just started in major U.K. supermarkets. The largest-selling German Riesling there will carry a neck-holder label urging drinkers to help stop the highway.”
We are ecstatic, both at the Cherries And Clay Vancouver headquarters, and here at the Okanagan branch, that our good pal Rob Van Westen of Van Westen Vineyards is a very recent recipient of the Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence In BC Wine.
Jake & I have long been fans of Rob’s wines, and from that (as wine can do) has come a fantastic friendship with Rob and his wonderful family. When we both did the UC Davis Introduction To Winemaking course, Rob was the first one we called about doing a little winery work experience, he happily obliged – and worked us really damn hard. A third-generation Naramata farmer, Rob has grown cherries longer than grapes, and the award ceremony caught him smack in the middle of cherry season.
So what’s a farmer to do?
Well, Rob thought it might be nice for the delegation to have the ceremony in his cherry orchard, for a change of pace. Figuring there’s another 11 of these ceremonies that they have to go through, vineyard after vineyard after vineyard does get a little tired, so the cherry orchard it was.
And what a good call! It was 37°C that day, and being enveloped by a leafy cherry orchard certainly cooled things off. It really was a magical afternoon, and I’d like to personally thank Rob for inviting me to attend with all the fancy people, international dignitaries and such. I only had my iPhone for photos and video, and the video I took totally sucked. Thankfully, Craig Henderson of MyNaramata.com was there and shot some great footage, except the interview with me at the end where it seems as if someone had offered me $5 for each time I would say “Uhhh…”.
Just below Craig’s video are some photos I took during the hoopla.
Oh, and find yourself some of the Van Westen 2008 Vino Grigio as soon as you can, it’s days are quickly numbered due to this prestigious award. If you can’t find any, look for Rob’s Viognier. To be honest, that’s the one that I thought was more likely to win the award, and am only telling you that because that’s what Rob had thought, too!
Because we should all drink a little more Sherry…and I enjoy using the word ‘alert’ in titles.
I became excited yesterday when I saw a bottle sherry on the shelves at the LDB that was completely new to me. The sherry section at the Thurlow and Bute Signature Store is quite good and the best feature of the new digs - credit must be due to fellow sherry-lover Barb Philip MW, who is the European Portfolio Manager for the BCLDB. Thanks Barb!
Osborne has been family owned for over 200 years and is probably best known for their advertising in Spain - large black bull outlines on hilltops along the highways (billboards are now banned, and the Osborne logo has been blacked out). Finos are the driest and lightest style of Sherry and their often nutty and saline characters are contributed to aging under a thick blanket of indigenous yeast called flor.
Osborne Fino Quinta
This is definitely on the lighter and fruitier side of the fino scale. There is a palate-coating flour character that comes from the flor aging, yet I find more focus on fresh fruit components like asian pear and pineapple with a dry finish. I feel like this may be a good gateway fino for those that would be put off by a richer, more intense example. Tasty, yet simple. It comes in a half bottle and is a good price at $12.75. Check availability here.
A few days back, the folks at Winecouver put together a post about struggles that retailer Firefly Fine Wine and Ales has had with the government’s hate for their high tech Enomatic machine. Among other points, the liquor board states that the wine must be served in plastic cups (our government is anti-environment and anti-the drinking of wine for enjoyment), the total of all pours cannot exceed an ounce or two (of wine!) and the remaining contents of the bottles must be destroyed 30 mins prior to the store closing (essentially defeating the purpose of an Enomatic machine in the first place). It turns out other people think that these regulations are completely off-base as well…
Yesterday, Wines & Vines did a piece about Enomatic machines called “Government Limits Wine Dispensers,” which landed the top story today on WineBusiness.com. Wine blogger Dr. Vino referenced Winecouver’s post in his weekly Sipped and Spit article. Winelaw.ca’s Mark Hicken included a link in his Summer News post earlier this week.
I have had both great experiences with an Enomatic machine (Lavinia in Paris) and some not so good experiences (some restaurants think you can hook up 50 bottles and that they will never oxidize). I love their use in retail stores - especially when they are set up on card credits and you can pay to try an array of different wines before you buy (something that is illegal in BC also). These regulations are just more examples of how the BCLDB doesn’t understand a difference between fine wine and Bacardi Breezers (and in the process is stifling a wine culture in BC). They also aim to make it as difficult as possible for private retailers (their customer and competition!). Keep it up Winecouver.
The contents didn’t last long enough to make it into the photograph…
I was headed to the beach earlier today and stopped to get some plonk (er… extremely value-driven wine) that would be suitable to sip on in the sun and think little about. The Dover Arms Cold Beer and Wine Store basically services those heading to the beach or the Stanley Park Pitch and Putt, so I didn’t expect to get much of a deal. The Finca del Rey Malvasia/Muscat blend (non-vintage, 11%, and sourced from the ‘Mediterranean area of Spain’) caught my eye; I’d never seen it before, and at $11.50-ish, it was a buck cheaper than the Dunavar Pinot Gris. This plonk turned out to be extremely drinkable, with lots of floral and orange-citrus fruit of the Muscat coming through. I expect private stores in the city to do quite well with this wine since the cost on a bottle is $8.99. There is also a red blend from Tempranillo and Cab that I’d be interested in trying out. Something to consider when looking for wine to fill your plastic cups with.
Also, the importer is called Markat, who I’d never heard of, but it looks as though they’re taking a hit by operating a website designed in the 90s so they can pass savings on through their wine. Kudos for that.