Dominique Piron ’06 Moulin a Vent
“Les Vignes du Vieux Bourg”

I’m officially addicted to Cru Beaujolais and have been seeking them out over the last few months. Clos de la Roillette ’06 from Fleurie was the bottle that kicked off my recent craze. So pretty – floral and candied fruit but with depth and a little backbone, not to mention a fantastic story (go ask Neil at Boneta as he’s pouring it by the glass right now). Next I had the naturally farmed Marcel Lapierre ’06 Morgon – so silky, elegant and soft (its available at Cactus Club Bentall of all places for a very reasonable markup too). Yesterday I picked up a bottle of Dominique Piron ’06 Moulin a Vent “Les Vignes du Vieux Bourg.”

Moulin a Vent tends to be the most revered of the 10 Beaujolais Crus. The most depth and intensity with the most potential to age. Immediately the nose was dominated with a cherry chapstick component and some definite herbaceousness (a sort of forest underbrush character). Also the classic candied strawberry and red fruits of the carbonic macerated gamay grape. Fairly complex and high intensity. On the palate there is definite structure: some light but noticable tannins as well as medium + acidity. Sour red fruits, cherry and raspberry notes as well as the original flavoured chapstick component with a bit of a dusty earthiness. On the second day open, this bottle lost a lot of its intensity and character but gained some softness on the palate.

This bottle is somewhat interesting, but definitely doesn’t have the silky texture that the previous two examples carry. I would rate this wine as “good” but for $25, the value isn’t there. Spend the extra money and look for the Roillette Fleuire ($32.99 at Liberty) or Lapierre Morgon ($39.99 at BCLDB) for examples of how expressive gamay can be.

Mastroberardino ’07 Greco di Tufo

Greco di Tufo, a DOCG appellation from Campagnia (the “shin” of the Italian boot) produces my favourite Italian white from the Greco grape. These wines are extremely rare in the BC market and I believe this is the only listed Greco di Tufo available from the BC Liquor Stores.

The nose is intense with so much minerality: crushed rock, dusty concrete with lots of lime and other citrus notes. There’s a vivid smell of latex gloves that is oddly intriguing. The palate is rich but crisp and again is packed with mineral qualities. It instantly reminds me of the taste of San Pellegrino with a touch of fresh lime squeezed in. More stoney character with green crabapples and some orange blossom. I’m reminded a lot of a good Austrian Grüner Veltliner.

I love this wine and could find a lot of occasions to drink it, especially during a summer afternoon on a patio with some fried halibut. This wine is very good and at $30 is not cheap but is justifiable. Drink white wine from Campagnia! Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, and Sannio Falanghina are all appellations worth experimenting with.