Something profound happened to me on Tuesday…I tasted these wines:

’02 Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays
’95 Michel Lafarge, Volnay – Clos du Chateau des Ducs (1er Cru)
’93 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay-Santenots-du-Milieu (1er Cru)
’00 Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny – Les Cras (1er Cru)
’00 Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin – Clos St Jacques (1er Cru)
’99 Hubert Lignier, Morey-St-Denis – Vieilles Vignes (1er Cru)
’99 Louis Jadot, Clos Saint Denis
’96 Rene Engel, Clos Vougeot
’96 Robert Groffier, Bonnes-Mares
’95 Jean-Jacques Confuron, Romanee St-Vivant

To most people the appellation system of Burgundy is a complicated one, but 5 of these wines are from Grand Cru appellations (being the best of the best and representing around 2% of total classified Burgundian wine) and the other 5 are Premier Cru appellations (the level just below Grand Cru with about 12% of production, although occasionally certain Crus are held with the same distinction as some of the Grand Crus… ie. Clos St Jacques).

I’m quite sure that a few of these bottle rank very highly, and likely top my personal palate’s list of “best wines experienced.” I’m also fairly certain that if I was in a different setting and scenario, every bottle would have the potential to create a very spiritual and unforgettable moment. Because most of these wines are for rich people or very special occasions, I don’t really see the relevance for anyone if I was to post up my in depth tasting notes… which for the most part are pretty rough and scattered with expletives. So rather, I thought I’d talk about a few important lessons I took away from the tasting (many of which were absorbed through stories from local wine idol David Scholefield), followed by a couple simple notes of my favourite wines.

1. The trouble with good Burgundy is that you can’t get it. When you can, it isn’t cheap.
The best producing vineyards of Burgundy are small and aren’t ever going to get any bigger…. simple supply and demand principles make these wines quite expensive and rare. With new demand from expanding markets (ie Asia), it may be even less likely for the average person to afford a bottle in the future. This means we need to find value in other areas. In good healthy vintages, many of the best Burgundian producers will have too much of the best quality juice that can’t all be made into Grand Cru or Premier Cru due to volume restrictions set in place by the AOC. This means that some of this wine will be bottled as basic Bourgogne AC, or in extreme cases, under things like Passe-Tout-Grains AC. This requires some solid research and insider connections to find the best deals. Another great idea is to look for good examples of Pinot Noir from places like the Cote Chalonnaise – Mercurey AC or Givry AC or for some beautifully soft and complex Cru Beaujolais wines such as Morgon, Fleurie, or the longer-lived and perhaps most Pinot Noir-esque Moulin-a-Vent where even the top quality wines are still within your price range. I’m definitely not saying any of these should even be compared to a Grand Cru from the Cote de Nuit, but they will cost you a fraction of the price and still offer lots of enjoyment.

2. Good Burgundy dramatically evolves in your glass.
One of the greatest aspects of drinking good Burgundy is how it will constantly morph while you drink it. Aromas that were crystal clear 10 minutes ago are replaced by new characters “is this the same wine?” Wines, that when poured, smell overly musty or a little funky “does this smell corked to you?” may blow off completely. Gamey and mushroomy notes are common; “If you want antiseptic wines, then don’t even go to Burgundy. Go somewhere cheaper” – David Scholefield. Drinking these kind of wines is a complete experience from start to finish.

3. The quality of the producer is just as important as the classification.
Buying a bottle of Burgundy solely based on the fact that it is a Grand Cru or a Premier Cru is never a good idea. Quality ranges considerably, especially depending on exactly where grapes are farmed from within an appellation. Many boundaries were set with political agendas in mind. Take Clos Vougeot AC for example, which is referred to as “an impressive sight but not a very impressive site.” It’s 123 acres and is carved up by 85 separate owners…some which only make 1 case of wine. There’s a drastic difference between the quality of the grapes grown on the hillside and those grown on the flat valley floor. “The other appellation that should be avoided like the plague. Not worth your attention until it is. And when it is, it is.” – David Scholefield. The other main AC to generally avoid buying is Gevry-Chambertin – the largest commune in the Cote de Nuit which also includes some questionable parcels of land. We were fortunate that wines we tasted from both Clos Vougeot and Gevry-Chamberin both came from respected producers who own quite revered pieces of land within their respective appellations.

My two favourite wines were probably two of the softest and silkiest and were both from Chambolle-Musginy, known for its femininity:

’00 Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny – Les Cras (1er Cru)
Smokey nose off the bat, followed by earthy, spicy, anise, floral notes…some strange bubble gum character? Wow. Wave of spice and fruit evolving on the palate – cherry, raspberry, cherry tomatoes. Elegant and soft but very concentrated, amazing length. Shockingly good.

’96 Robert Groffier, Bonnes-Mares (a Grand Cru of Chambolle-Musigny)
Clean red fruit on the nose, tomatoey, earthy and dusty. The palate again is delicate and elegantly soft. A similar amazing wave of changing bright sweet red fruit characters on the palate. Slightly gamey with underlying chalk and vegetable characters. Very long finish…incredible.

Thanks again to Michelle Bouffard for the wine and for organizing this tasting. Also to David Scholefield for guiding us through the wines, plus sharing the stories.