
I joined friends for dinner tonight where we barbecued some beautiful filet mignon, seasoned simply with olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. There wasn’t a better time to unleash the monster that is Pichierri’s “Tradizione del Nonno” ’05 Primitivo produced by Vinicola Savese (whose website appears to currently be broken). A big brother to the “Terrarossa” label, which I tasted last week (I don’t only drink Primitivo by the way), this guy is also from Puglia in Southeast Italy and made from the Primitivo grape.
“Tradizione del Nonno” translates to “Tradition of the Grandfather” which dictates the style of this wine. The grapes are left late on the vine to overripen until the middle of September (Primitivo is inherently early ripening as it is) which creates high sugar levels by the time these slightly raisinated grapes are picked. Yes, the label does say 16% alcohol…apparently Primitivo does share some common traits with its Californian cousin Zinfandel. The majority of this wine is aged in large amphorae (see ancient clay technology) with 15% in oak barriques.
The nose is spicy and exotic – plums with cedar, maple syrup and brown sugar. The rich viscous palate brings dark purple berry fruit, cola and spiced raisins. This wine has some obvious sweetness (12g/l of residual sugars) which balances out the high alcohol. It did match quite nicely with the tender charred beef filets and definitely needs to be paired with bold flavours, otherwise the wine will dominate.
Picture mixing about 2/3rds LBV Port (for the dark purple fruit and high alcohol) and 1/3rd PX Sherry (for the spiced raisins and brown sugar). This is a miniature version of how I would expect that to taste. Quite hedonistic and delicious. Ideally, this wine is geared more towards something I’d like to drink on a cold winter night as opposed to a summer afternoon, yet still enjoyable.
The BCLDB website lists the “Tradizione del Nonno” at $29.99, however, I was able to pick it up at Kingsgate mall off a rack in the corner for $20…I’m sure there’s some left.