This morning I carried a Christmas tree, albeit a three foot Christmas tree, fifteen blocks in a torrential downpour like I’ve rarely ever seen (this photo fails to capture the biblical scale flooding briefly passing the streets of San Francisco). It wasn’t raining when we embarked on this ambitious mission and, as luck would have it, the sun started to show itself for a few minutes just as we changed out of our drowned clothing.

It’s days like this where a crisp and refreshing New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc just doesn’t cut it. If I’m going to drink something white, I’d prefer a wine on the business side of things.

Coenobium ’07 “Rusticum” – Lazio IGT
Produced by Monastero Trappiste Vitorchiano – 55% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia, 15% Verdicchio, 10% Grechetto, only 3900 bottles produced, 3600 of which were exported to the US. The fruit used is grown organically by three nuns from a Trappist Cistercian monastery an hour north of Rome and the winemaker is Giampiero Bea (son of Paolo Bea). This wine is made with extended skin contact and without temperature controlled fermentation.

I tried the sisters’ basic label last year and found it very intriguing and quite complex. The Rusticum receives even more skin contact which is reflective in its dark yellow to orangey hue. The characters come across as lemon, orange and peach macerated in earl gray tea with a dash of yeastiness. Very rich, medium acid, slight evident tannins and a milky orange finish. I really enjoyed this bottle – it’s made in a very cool and exciting style that many people haven’t experienced.

If given the chance, I highly recommend trying the light tan label “Coenobium,” which though not as rich, I feel it has even more subtle complexities that are lost in the Rusticum, plus it’s usually around $10 cheaper. In this extended skin contact category, I’m still quite taken by the Donati Camillo ‘08 Malvasia Secco, see notes here.

In San Francisco, the Coenobium “Rusticum” runs at around $30, and I’ve seen it at Arlequin, Biondivino, and Terroir (which is still closed).