Maria Jose López de Heredia

You probably already know a thing or two about R. López de Heredia, the timeless Rioja producer who often free their vintages 10 or 20 years after their neighbours. Traditional in the respect that they’ve been making wine, farming grapes and growing the same varietals for the last 130 odd years. The magnificent winery sits a short walk from the Rioja Alta town of Haro and their grapes come from four distinct vineyards: Tondonia, Gravonia, Cubillo, and Bosconia. To satisfy any thirst you may have for more from López de Heredia’s story, read this fantastic New York Times article by Mr. Asimov, or browse their surprisingly thorough website.

This is wine I’ve longed to drink, but rarely had the opportunity until this past Thursday.

Interpretation of my brief scrawled, and at times, incomplete notes…

Gravonia Bianco Crianza ’99
100% Viura – aged 4 years in barrel. More info.
Coconut and marzipan with some apple flesh and peachy fruit. Sherry-like in it’s nuttiness with bright acid. Rich, complex and very good. Quite reasonably priced at $29 US. Our pour was from a new bottle with a very slight chill and the temperature was perfect.

Tondonia Bianco Reserva ’90
90% Viura 10% Malvasia – aged for 6 years in barrel. More info.
Hazelnut and red apple skin. A rich white with complexity you could spend hours smelling. The acidity is staggering for a 20 year old white. Interesting and very good. $47 US.

Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva ’98
Garnacho (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%) – 4.5 years in barrel. More info.
One of my favourite all-time rosés; certainly the most interesting. Unsweetened peach iced-tea and oak. Nutty with slight raspberry flavours and good acidity. I love this wine. $28 US.

Cubillo Crianza ’04
Tempranillo (65%), Garnacho (25%), Mazuelo and Graciano – 3 years in barrel. More info.
Vibrant spread of red fruit, chocolate, sweet oak and dried basil on the finish. Medium weight, very good at a good price. $28 US.

Bosconia Reserva ’01
Tempranillo (80%), Garnacho (15%), Mazuelo and Graciano – 5 years in barrel. More info.
Deep, ripe fruit, dark chocolate, dusty tannins (wood tannins?). Complex and tasty. $40 US.

Tondonia Gran Reserva ’87
Tempranillo (75%), Garnacho (15%), Mazuelo and Graciano – 8 years in barrel. More info.
Potpourri, spice and coffee with ripe red fruit. Quite exotic and earthy. Very good – a delicious treat. $93 US.

I somehow managed to forget to take a single picture.

The reds were fascinating to try (especially the Gran Reserva 87), but my heart is in the whites and the rosé. It’s so rare to see whites and rosés aged this well, especially at these prices. The nuttiness and acidity define a style that’s a pleasure to drink. The freshly fermented wine’s acidity must be staggering to be able to equip it for the long haul in barrel.

Thanks for another interesting tasting from Arelquin Wine Merchant.

Some of these wines are available in BC through Waldorf Wines. Kitsilano and Dundarave Wine Cellars are probably the best places to look in Vancouver.