Every Sunday, with an educational edge, I explore specific appellations or sub-regions, taking you along for the ride. If it’s old news, then brush up on some fading facts; if it’s uncharted territory, why not learn something new? If you know something I haven’t mentioned, then feel free to comment and share your experiences. Check out past Sunday posts here.

Photo from coteauxduloir.fr

Despite how wrong it feels, there are no spelling mistakes in the title…

Chris Deegan of Nopa is one sommelier who embraces reds from the Loire and especially those made from the grape Pineau d’Aunis (Pee-no Doh-neece). He has three on Nopa’s acclaimed list, including one from the Coteaux du Loir, an area in the northern reaches of the Loire Valley’s river basin. I’ve tasted little Pineau d’Aunis, and while definitely not enough to generalize, it has reminded me of a rendition of spicy and peppery Gamay. Similarly driven by fresh red fruit, but with more green leafy characters. Sometimes overwhelmingly green, and other times perfectly seasoned to add complexity.

The Pineau d’Aunis grape isn’t related to the Pinot family or Chenin Blanc (as it’s sometimes called Chenin Noir). Its medieval history is rooted in France’s Loire Valley and you’d have a hard time finding it growing anywhere else on the planet.

Click map for better perspective.

The Coteaux du Loir, with its embedded appellation of Jasnières, is nestled in the hills, 40 km (25 mi) north of the town of Tours within the Touraine section. The small Jasnières AC is exclusively for Chenin Blanc from the best slopes. The Coteaux du Loir AC is reserved for whites from Chenin Blanc and red and rosés from Pineau d’Aunis, Cab Franc, Gamay, and Malbec (Côt); Grolleau as also allowed to round out the rosés (25%). This is the fringe of where grapes can ripen in Western France. South facing exposure and moderation from the Loir River play a crucial part in the vineyards’ survival. Widespread frost in 1956, which nearly wiped out the vines, reminds of how fragile viticulture can be in a marginal climate. The soil tends to be the limestone-rich tufa with some flinty clay.

Photo from Belliviere.com

Domaine de Bellivière is the small estate run by Eric Nicolas and his family. Their 13 hectares of vines are spread across the Coteaux du Loir and Jasnières. Eric Nicolas is committed to organic viticulture (and biodynamic since 2008) in a cool and damp place that doesn’t exactly favour farming without chemicals.

Domaine de Bellivière ‘08 Rouge-Gorge (Pineau d’Aunis)

Shit this wine is good. Radiant fresh strawberry and cherry fruit with cinnamon-heart spice and green leafy herbaceousness. Light and velvety, yet with a structured edge; distinct acidity and a small bite of tannin at the end. I enjoyed every sip of it. $25-30 in SF.

Bellivière is imported into Quebec by a company called Le Maître de Chai, who pull in some impressive producers. I realize that for British Columbians, and the laws we’re burdened with, this doesn’t make the wine much easier to get our hands on. But it’s in the country! It’s so close! Figuratively. I can’t think of any Pineau d’Aunis wines in BC, but then again, I was never looking for them. Does anyone have any insight?

There’s an awesome connection that I didn’t put together until I was digging around the net for more information on Bellivière. Cory (saignée) credits the Rouge-Gorge with being his epiphany natural wine. It spurred him down the path of plotting the “31 Days of Natural Wine,” working at Terroir, and super recently, starting up an importing company with Guilhaume Gerard called Selection Massale. An inspiring post, read it here.

Seek out Pineau d’Aunis and keep trying the unfamiliar, exciting things may happen.

As always, please feel free to contribute any information, experience or tasting notes that you feel are relevant and check back next Sunday. Check out past Sunday posts here.

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