I recently had the chance to try this little number, “Bordello” from Summerland’s Dirty Laundry Vineyard.

Known  primarily for a trilogy of Gewürztraminers from different plots of their vineyard, Dirty Laundry has some of the region’s oldest vinifera vines.  The winery came out of the gates strong with some great aromatic whites about half a decade ago, but personnel changes and constant direction-tweaking made the critical-darling era a fleeting one.

I re-visited their wines, their whole line of current releases, a couple weeks back to find that the winery is starting, slowly, to get back on track.  Fortunately, they’ve been able to keep the business aspect of the place on-course due to the fantastic branding and design, provided by Bernie Hadley-Beauregard of Brandever, which aims to reflect a little history:

It was the late 1800′s when fur traders, goldminers and cattlemen traveled through the Okanagan and to Summerland’s original townsite, nestled on the shores of the Okanagan Lake. It was also the era of the construction of the national Canadian Pacific Railway through British Columbia. Our story starts with one of the 15,000 Chinese workers who fled the terrible working conditions of the railway construction and eventually found himself on the shores of Summerland – paradise found!

His first business endeavour was a Chinese Laundry that thrived as the sternwheeler boats docked nearby, delivering people and supplies to the growing community. It didn’t take long however for this entrepreneur to see there were other needs in town not being met. Hence his business expanded to include a gambling den and brothel on the second floor!! Needless to say Summerland’s early settlers and visitors had some of the cleanest garments in the Valley… not to mention the widest grins. Perhaps it is best that we keep this little known part of Summerland history, hush hush.

The one I took the most notice on while tasting was their 2007 ‘Bordello’, a Bordeaux-inspired blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and 1% (!) Merlot.  It was softer than I’d expected, with rich cherries, blueberries, a dash of chocolate and a pinch of spice and fresh leafy herbs.  The tannins weren’t intense at all (a common Okanagan “flexing” habit), but soft and well integrated while still supplying a sturdy structure.  Good food wine, and decent exhibition of provenance.

But-

It’s 39 bucks.  The same cost as two bottles of Michael Bartier’s brilliant Road 13 Honest John’s Red or two bottles of Howard Soon’s award-winning wines from Sandhill.

So if you’re at a friend’s place and get offered a glass, I’d definitely recommend you give it a whirl, same for if you see it poured at a tasting.

But, MAN, 39 bucks?!

Even with that fantastic label (see the naked ladies on it?) which definitely turns some heads, I’d much prefer to hang out with the girl next door, and feel better about it in the morning.