Domaine Henri Gouges has a celebrated reputation in Burgundy. The domaine, now run by Henri’s grandsons Pierre and Christian, dates back to 1919 and is currently serving up six Premier Cru wines from 14.5 hectares (35 acres) of vines. Henri was a pioneer of domaine bottling in Burgundy and all his vineyards are in the southern Côte de Nuit commune of Nuits-St-George.

I have little doubt that Gouges’ reds are anything less than spectacular (as I have yet to try them), but what intrigues me is the saga behind his three white bottlings. At some point in the 1930s, one or more of his Pinot Noir vines in the Clos des Porrets vineyard had mutated (or “albinised” as offered by Ian Becker). In the early 1940s, Henri cultivated clippings of white Pinot Noir vines in a section of his La Perrière vineyard. More recently, clones from La Perrière were used to plant a Bourgogne AC designated plot of land that is now sold as “Pinot Blanc.”

Domaine Henri Gouges’ three whites are Clos des Porrets St-George 1er Cru, La Perrière 1er Cru and Bourgogne “Pinot Blanc.”

Pinot Noir is notorious for being unstable, prone to mutating, and is responsible for Pinots of the Gris, Blanc and Meunier variety. Domaine Gouges is labeling the Bourgogne wine “Pinot Blanc” which would be easier from AOC law standpoint and is ‘white’ Pinot, but are these actually Pinot Blanc vines? While not a geneticist, I would assume that it’s unlikely for a section of a vine to mutate exactly into an already existing variety and because Henri has embraced and cultivated these vines while they retained their characteristics for over 70 years, it is technically a separate cultivar and worthy of its own name (I’ve read it referred to as Pinot Gouges and Pinot Musigny). In the end, it shouldn’t and doesn’t really matter what you call the wine, it tastes like Burgundy.

I’ve tried the Bourgogne twice (I believe both times from 06) and really enjoyed it. Quite leesy and yeasty with lots of spiced apple and pear and little nuttiness. I tasted a bottle of Clos des Porrets St-George ’06 one night at Terroir and although still wound up too tightly, you could tell it was considerably more serious and I’d love to try it again down the road.

If you do spot some of rare whites from Domaine Henri Gouges, take that opportunity to share and drink it and discuss how weird it is to be drinking white Pinot Noir.

Arlequin in SF has a Henri Gouges tasting coming up next week. Terroir in SF has a selection of wines from Gouges. Marquis in Vancouver sells wine by Henri Gouges, but I’m not sure about the whites.