Every Sunday, with an educational edge, I explore specific appellations or sub-regions, taking you along for the ride. If it’s old news, then brush up on some fading facts; if it’s uncharted territory, why not learn something new? If you know something I haven’t mentioned, then feel free to comment and share your experiences. Check out past Sunday posts here.

I just read Mike Steinberger’s article in Slate, “Why I’ll always prefer Burgundy to Bordeaux,” and while I don’t believe it’s a divided camp that everyone must choose between, I’m definitely in his camp. One of the most important factors in Burgundy, perhaps more worthwhile than memorizing the complicated and confusing appellation system, is knowing the reputation of the individual producer. “Know thy producer,” as Becky Wasserman has said.

While we all know that Burgundy can be inaccessibly priced, there are places to head towards for value, especially if you’re conscientious of the producer. Mercurey is one of those places. It sits south of the most prestigious villages of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise (an area once called Région de Mercurey). It’s a little cooler and the soils are more varied – a patchwork of limestone, sandy clay, and marl. Mercurey is the most planted village in the Côte Chalonnaise with 650 ha (1600 acres) planted to reds from Pinot Noir and less than 10% whites made up of mostly Chardonnay with some Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Beurrot). The appellation does allow for up to 15% white grapes in the red wines, but this right isn’t commonly exercised. While Mercurey does have 30-odd Premier Crus, these designations don’t hold the same weight as they do in the Côte d’Or.

The first bottle of Mercurey that made me stop and really appreciate it was from Château de Chamirey which I had a few years ago while eating at Jules Bistro. It was selling retail for around $36 and was drinking like something twice that price. Domaine Faiveley‘s ’07 “La Framboisières” was another I have enjoyed since, but overall, my Mercurey experiences have been fairly limited.

From DomaineDerain.com

Dominique Derain’s entrance into the wine industry was as a cooper, crafting barrels. Domaine Derain now owns 5.5 hectares in Burgundy and has been farming biodynamically since 1989. Most of their vineyards are scattered throughout the more prestigious villages of the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. The fruit for “La Plante Chassey” comes from a 0.9 hectare (2.2 acre) plot of old vines in Mercurey, which include a small amount of Pinot Beurrot (Pinot Gris). Their wines aren’t chapitalized and La Plante Chassey weighs in at only 12%.

Derain ’07 Mercurey “La Plante Chassey”

My girlfriend and I shared this bottle at Terroir while snacking on escargot lollipops (wrapped in pastry, deep fried and covered with garlic butter!!) from the famed mobile French take-away truck Spencer On The Go. The pairing was ridiculously good and the wine was singing. A lovely softness with riveting acidity. The sour red fruit had hints of mushrooms and Herbes de Provence. Delicious wine for around $45 retail, far less than you’d pay for good Burgundy further north.

As always, please feel free to contribute any information, experience or tasting notes that you feel are relevant and check back next Sunday. Check out past Sunday posts here.