I recently shared my aversion for the volumes of boring wine sold daily in Vancouver. As a follow up, I’m writing briefly about five regions that I’m digging on this day, August 29, 2010, all of which are available to some extent in our fine province. The exact order is largely based on how I feel this minute, so don’t read into it too much. If anything below is completely new to you, I’d urge you to seek out the wines and begin experimenting for yourself – preferably with friends, loved ones, etc.

1. Jura, France
Domaine Andre and Mireille Tissot (now run by son Stéphane) carries the flame as the only producer available in BC from the virtually unknown eastern French region of Jura. Hopefully a couple of other names will surface eventually (*cough, Jacques Puffeney, Overnoy!), but in the meantime we should enjoy the brilliant range of what Tissot offers. The best are wonderfully authentic, expressive and thought provoking wines. The collection of single vineyard Chardonnays are really cool – ‘Les Graviers’ with it’s slight nutty oxidized nature, minerality, yet spiced apple freshness and evolving length, may change the way you think about Chardonnay (don’t fear the semi-oxidation!). The ’05 Poulsard sans souffe (made from the indigenous red Poulsard grape and unsulfured at bottling) is deceiving with its faint colour, yet packs power and tannin, balancing a stinky, earthy, almost cheesy character with vibrant and pretty red fruit. Its ability to successfully balance various obvious elements is an enigma. Tissot’s Cremant de Jura ‘Indigene’ is delicious bubble made like Champagne, yet displays more personality than many Champagne brands at twice the price. The Vin Jaune is rad, yet pricey as they tend to be. I have yet to try all the labels from the 10 or so wines available in our parts, but so far the Traminer ’07 Arbois AC (a value label from the Savagnin grape) is the only one that has bored me. Find out how cool Jura is for yourself and then only share your love with a few of your closest friends – there isn’t enough for everyone.

2. Northern Spain
I really only wanted to speak about wine from two producers. So by Northern Spain, I actually mean R. Lopez de Heredia from Rioja Alta and Bodegas y Vinedos Alion from Ribera del Duero – two vastly different producers, neither of which would be considered small.
R. Lopez de Heredia is that traditional producer which has been family owned for 130 years and still adheres to the crazy old tradition of releasing their wines when they figure you should drink them. If you spot a rosé from the 90s on the shelf at a wine shop, it was almost certainly made by R. Lopez. I’ve been in love with the rosé and the whites for some time now, yet still haven’t had an epiphany involving their reds. The whites are strange and delicious and incredibly versatile with food. They will often show a vanilla woodiness on the nose (usually from long barrel aging in American oak) and carry a slightly nutty oxidized character, but the long-lived vibrant acidity will prove how alive they still are. I recently brought bottles of the Vina Tondonia ’93 Rose Crianza (from Garnacho, Tempranillo, Viura grapes) and the Vina Gravonia ’99 White Crianza (100% Viura) to a weekend gathering of high school friends, half expecting to drink them by myself, but the reception was wonderful. Everyone was intrigued by their uniqueness and one pal even suggested that the Gravonia ranked high in his all-time favourite whites. Pretty cool. Kitsilano Wine Cellar has a good selection from R. Lopez de Heredia and the wines start in the $40s.
Bodegas y Vinedos Alion is essentially the second label from Spain’s most famous producer – Vega Sicilia. It’s a wine that I’ve wanted to try for a while and one I was always a touch worried I wouldn’t like (maybe I was intimidated by the Parker points, of which this wine has plenty). The 2004 is 100% Tempranillo with 15 months of new oak lending a big, plush style. A kiss of rustic charm, which Spain is so good at, makes it difficult to dislike. $85 in the government store. If you shell out big dollars for Napa Cabs, I suggest giving this a go next time.

3. Beaujolais, France
I hardly think my adoration for wine from the Crus of Beaujolais is a secret. The stock on the government shelves seems to be dwindling, but hopefully we’ll start to see new vintages from a few producers. 2009 it up as much as you can! Look for Dominique Piron, Marcel Lapierre in the Signature Stores and Richard Rottier at Marquis Wine Cellars. Henry Fessy’s 2008 St. Amour – a light and pretty expression from the most northerly Cru is quite delicious and available at a few of the bigger government stores.

Image borrowed from Les Marcelins
4. Loire Valley, France
The Loire is such a bountiful source of unique wines with value – especially crisp and vibrant whites from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet), and Romorantin. Marquis Wine Cellars is great base for whites and red from the Loire – Touraine, Vouvray (see Huet), Saumur. The Domaine des Huards ’07 Cour-Cheverny is a cool wine from the Romorantin grape at just over $20 (more info). I’ve also been loving the delicious pink wines from organic Saumur producer Manoir de la Tête Rouge. The 2009 rosé ‘Bille de Clown’ (Cab Franc) is easily the tastiest rosé I’ve tried all summer and well worth its release price of $24. There is also the sweet, very fruity and very delicious bubble ‘Tête à Claque’ that reminds me a lot of Bugey-Cerdon (think Gamay-flavoured soda pop). I would love to see reds surface from Pineau d’Aunis – this little grape can provide great pleasure. Also, Clos Rougeard will change your life – if someone can get at least a couple cases imported into this province, I’ll invite you all over to my place for a Clos Rougeard party.

5. New Zealand
These two small islands are the source of my most cherished wines from the Southern Hemisphere. I’m not talking about Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc or the droves of taste-a-likes (although I recently had the Churton Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which I thought was pretty interesting). Many producers in New Zealand are planting Syrah, which is delivering a restrained style with plenty of promise. The southern region of Central Otago, known best for bringing us mind-blowing Pinot Noir (see Rippon, Felton Road, Pyramid Valley) is also a source of incredible steely and lean Rieslings. The two on offer from Rippon are especially delicious, the 2008 ‘Jeunesse’ from young vines is a great starting point for around $30, and the regular label, for $10 more, is a step up in seriousness and minerality. Kits Wine Cellar is a good beacon for NZ wines.
What are you into drinking these days?